En Masse

Most fashion brands begin with a product. En Masse began with a belief, then became a complete in-house case study spanning strategy, design, manufacturing and culture.

Designing and building a fashion brand

Most fashion brands begin with a product.

En Masse began with a belief.

Before a single garment was designed, sampled, or manufactured, we spent time defining what the brand stood for and the role it would play within the wider fashion landscape. We were not interested in creating another trend-led label designed to chase seasonal attention. The ambition was to build something more enduring. A brand rooted in identity, community, and thoughtful design.

For us, En Masse became a complete in-house case study. An opportunity to apply every discipline within Underfound Studio, from strategy and brand development to product design, manufacturing, content creation, and marketing. The project allowed us to demonstrate what happens when every stage of a brand's development is guided by a single creative vision.

Research and cultural foundations

The earliest phase focused on research. We explored themes of collectivism, strength in numbers, European sports culture, underground movements, and the concept of everyday uniforms. Inspiration was drawn from architecture, music, photography, sport, and street culture, with particular attention paid to the understated confidence often found within Parisian and European fashion communities.

This research was not about copying existing aesthetics. It was about identifying a cultural space the brand could genuinely occupy. From moodboards and material studies to films, photography, and design references, every piece of research helped shape the foundations of what En Masse would become.

The name itself emerged from this process. Meaning "in a group" or "together" in French, En Masse captured the ideas of unity, shared identity, and collective movement that sat at the heart of the brand. The decision reflected a wider philosophy that continues to guide the business today.

Every element of the identity was developed to support that philosophy. Typography, language, campaign messaging, packaging, and product design were all created to feel considered, restrained, and timeless.

Designing the collection as a system

With the foundations established, attention turned to the collection itself. Rather than designing individual products in isolation, we approached the range as a complete system. Every garment was designed to work alongside the others, creating a cohesive wardrobe rather than a collection of disconnected pieces.

Silhouettes were refined to be repeatable and recognisable. Colour palettes remained intentionally restrained, focusing on tones that transcend seasonal trends and integrate naturally into everyday life. Black, cream, navy, and muted neutrals were selected not only because they reflected the brand's aesthetic, but because they remain commercially relevant year after year.

The focus throughout was on longevity. Garments were designed to be worn repeatedly, not simply purchased and forgotten. Weight, drape, comfort, durability, and versatility became just as important as visual appeal. Multiple rounds of sampling and refinement ensured every piece met the standards we had established from the outset.

Manufacturing with intent

Once the product direction was defined, we began the search for manufacturing partners capable of bringing the vision to life. This stage required extensive research and careful evaluation. We prioritised ethical production practices, premium material sourcing, technical expertise, and the ability to produce smaller quantities without compromising quality.

Portugal quickly emerged as the natural choice. Widely recognised as one of Europe's leading garment manufacturing regions, it offered the combination of craftsmanship, transparency, and quality control that the project demanded. Working closely with production partners, we refined every detail, from fabric selection and garment construction to stitching methods, wash processes, and finishing techniques.

To maintain greater creative control and reduce unnecessary waste, final printing and finishing processes were completed through trusted UK partners, allowing us to oversee quality throughout the entire production journey.

A visual identity built on honesty

The visual identity of En Masse was developed with the same level of restraint and intention. Rather than following the polished conventions of traditional fashion advertising, we chose a more authentic approach. Photography focused on natural environments, honest textures, movement, and atmosphere. The objective was not to create distance or exclusivity, but to create connection.

People were placed at the centre of the imagery. The product remained important, but the focus was always on how it was worn, lived in, and experienced.

Film as an extension of the brand

This philosophy extended naturally into video content. Rather than treating film as a promotional tool, we viewed it as an extension of the brand itself. Campaign films, short-form content, and creative projects were designed to communicate feeling rather than simply communicate information.

Drawing on our background in documentary filmmaking, we focused on atmosphere, rhythm, and emotional connection. The resulting content felt cinematic without becoming overly polished, helping establish a visual language that reflected the authenticity of the brand.

Projects such as En Masse: Rematch became examples of how storytelling could support product while simultaneously building culture around the brand.

One vision, one process

Today, En Masse represents far more than a clothing label. It serves as a demonstration of what can be achieved when strategy, design, manufacturing, photography, filmmaking, and marketing are developed as part of one connected process.

By keeping every stage of development aligned under a single vision, we are able to move from concept to finished product with greater clarity, consistency, and purpose. Decisions are made faster, compromises are reduced, and the identity of the brand remains intact throughout.

Most importantly, it allows us to create products and experiences that feel genuine.

Design with intent. Manufacture responsibly. Communicate honestly. Build for longevity rather than attention.

En Masse continues to evolve, but the principles that shaped its creation remain unchanged. For us at Underfound Studio, En Masse is more than a fashion brand. It is proof that when every stage of the creative process is approached with care, discipline, and purpose, the result is not simply a product or a logo. It is a brand with a foundation strong enough to grow, adapt, and endure.

If you're looking to build a brand from the ground up, whether in fashion, lifestyle, retail, or beyond, we'd love to help bring your vision to life.

Credits

• Client: En Masse (in-house)
• Discipline: Brand, Product, Manufacturing, Film & Marketing
• Manufacturing: Portugal & UK
• Year: 2024